CUSTOM PATTERN MAKER - Chapter II - pg 10
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  CHAPTER II
THE BASIC  PATTERN BLOCKS

NOTE:    All blocks automatically include the minimum amount of ease needed to accommodate theatrical movement. (The amount of ease for each measurement is indicated in on screen command information where you enter measurements.  example: (e=.5)) The indicated amount is automatically added to the measurement you ENTER.  You can easily increase or decrease the ease through adjusting the measurements you enter in to the computer.

All of the basic pattern block functions are accessed under the PATTERNS popdown menu.


1. 2TORSO AND MALE

    C.P.M. uses 3 different drafting systems to create torso blocks.  2TORSO and MALE are based on the system illustrated in THE COSTUMER'S HANDBOOK by Covey and Ingham.  These systems are relatively good at producing blocks for bodies that fall close to the garment industry concept of standard body proportions and posture.  These patterns were the first experiments that Jim Prickrell wrote as part of his learning process.  We decided to leave them in because they make a  good comparison between mechanical drafting systems that were developed for standard size drafting and the custom-size method that was developed for C.P.M.
    The default measurements for the darts do not always produce accurately sized darts.  The size of the dart should be equal to the difference between the total chest measurement and the total waist measurement.  For TORSO2 darts should be figured as follows:  Calculate 1/4 of the difference between the chest measurement and the waist measurement.  Divide that by 5.  Make the bust dart 2/5 and the waist dart 3/5.
For MALE the calculation is easier: it is just 1/4 of the difference between the chest and the waist.


2. 1SEXBOD AND SLEEVE

    1SEXBOD and SLEEVE are an extrapolation from ROHR's system for special measurements in PATTERN DRAFTING & GRADING - WOMEN'S AND MISSES' GARMENT DESIGN.  These blocks are very accurate.  These drafting systems use measurements that are not standard to most measurement charts and drafting systems.  As a result, the drafted blocks accommodate neck angle, shoulder angle and shoulder tilt.  Bust points are placed accurately.   For bodies that are uneven from one side to the other, you can quickly make up a right and a left side pattern block.   1SEXBOD works equally well for men and children in addition to women.

     Under the SEW MENU's HELP MENU, under the PATTERN HELP SUB-MENU, you will find a complete set of instructions on how to take these measurements.

    1SEXBOD is a single waist-dart block.  For bodies that are large in the bust size in