CUSTOM PATTERN MAKER - Chapter II - pg 11
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  relation to the shoulder width, ROHR provides the method of adjusting the pattern after drafting to accommodate the mis-proportion.   The directions for this operation are included in the illustrated directions for flat pattern manipulation in this manual.
    The depth of the armhole is controlled by the length of the side seam.  The default set of measurements automatically provides a fairly high armhole appropriate to theatrical movement.  This means that the bust point is 1" above the dart point and about 1-1/2" below the armhole.  The dart in the back stops 1-1/2" from the shoulder blade pivot point.

NOTE:  IMPORTANT!  If you are going to add on  to the waist measurements to make a basic block fit loosely remember to add 1/2 of that same amount to the Side Waist Depth Measurement (the hypotenuse of the triangle).

    SLEEVE is the matching sleeve block for 1SEXBOD and is a standard dressmaker sleeve with minimum ease.  If you make SLEEVE  with measurements from the same source as 1SEXBOD, they will fit together correctly.
     You will need to draw in the elbow dart.  The blue construction lines are there, so PLINE from the INTERSection points.


3. DSLEEVE (DANCE SLEEVE)

    *DSLEEVE is a theatrical "dance" sleeve with ease and a shallow cap angle adjusted to accommodate a wider range of movement.  It is designed to fit the 1SEXBOD bodice block.



4. PANT

    PANT is a standardized block with the grain-line centered down the leg and off the high point of the cheek in the back.  The draft puts the crotch ease in the depth of the crotch curve, thus allowing for a clean sculptural fall of the garment off the rear hip area.  There also is a separate "dance-gusset" extension included in the draft for optional use.  It can easily be ERASEd to use the standard crotch line.
    This is another draft where you will need to enter a measurement for the dart. The back default includes a 3/4" dart. If you want the pant to have 2 darts, enter 2Xs the amount.  You  will need to copy the single dart to place the 2nd dart and then stretch the length on the inside one.  Likewise, if you want a dart in the front, just add that measurement to the waist size you TYPE in and then draw the dart in.


5. SKIRT

    SKIRT is a simple old-fashioned no-dart block.  It makes an A-line skirt and  includes a single dart in the back waist and 1/2" ease in both the front and back.  To create a classic straight "tailored" skirt pattern, cut the pattern  into 2 pieces (for 1 dart) or 3 pieces (for 2 darts) lengthwise and pivot at the hip break line to form darts.
     For directions on converting it to a waist-dart "straight skirt look at the directions for