STRAIGHT-GRAIN-SYMBOL

CUSTOM PATTERN MAKER BASIC BLOCKS

STRAIGHT-GRAIN-SYMBOL

CUSTOM PATTERN MAKER uses 3 different drafting systems to create torso blocks. TORSO 2 and MALE are based on the system illustrated in THE COSTUMER'S HANDBOOK by Covey and Ingham. These systems are relatively good at producing blocks for bodies that fall close to the garment industry concept of standard body proportions and posture.

1sexbodice-front1SEXBOD and SLEEVE are an extrapolation from ROHR's system for special measurements in PATTERN DRAFTING &;GRADING - WOMEN'S AND MISSES' GARMENT DESIGN. The drafting mechanics have been refined through practical use over a period of 25 years. These blocks are very accurate. They use measurements that are not standard to most measurement charts. As a result, the drafted blocks accommodate neck angle, shoulder angle and shoulder tilt. It places bust points accurately. For bodies that are uneven from one side to the other, you can quickly make up a right and a left side
pattern block.

1sexbodice-back1SEXBOD works equally well for men and children in addition to women. 1SEXBOD is a single waist-dart block. For bodies that are large in the bust size in relation to the shoulder width, ROHR provides the method of adjusting the pattern after drafting to accommodate the mis-proportion.

SLEEVE is the matching sleeve block for 1SEXBOD and is a standard dressmaker sleeve with minimum ease. If you make SLEEVE with measurements from the same source as 1SEXBOD, they will fit together correctly.

DSLEEVE is a theatrical "dance" sleeve with ease and cap angle adjusted to accommodate a wider range of movement. It is designed to fit the 1SEXBOD bodice block.

PANT is a standardized block with the grain-line centered down the leg and off the high point of the cheek in the back. The draft puts the crotch ease in the depth of the crotch curve, thus allowing for a clean sculptural fall of the garment off the rear hip area. There also is a separate "dance gusset" extension included in the draft for optional use. It can easily be ERASEd to use the standard crotch line.

SKIRT is a simple old-fashioned no-dart block. It includes a single dart in the back waist and 1/2" ease in both the front and back. To create a classic straight "tailored" skirt pattern, pivot along the hip break line to form darts.

All blocks automatically include the minimum amount of ease needed to accommodate theatrical movement. (The amount of ease for each measurement is indicated in on screen command information where you enter measurements. example: (e=.5)) You can easily increase or decrease the ease through adjusting the measurements you give the computer.

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